Cyprus Snacks

Cypriots are not as prone to eating on the hoof as continental Greeks or Turks. On both sides of the island small British-style cafes sell sandwiches and drinks, but local solutions are less numerous.

Stuffed baked goods in the South include eliopitta, olive-turnover; tashinopitta, a pastry with sesame paste; and kolokotes, a triangular pastry stuffed with pumpkin, cracked wheat and raisins. Around Easter time you'll repeated be offered flaounes, dough steeped in an egg-and-cheese mixture, then studded with raisins. Airani (ayran to the Turkish Cypriots) is a refreshing street-cart drink made of diluted yoghurt flavoured with dried mint or oregano and salt, though the dwindling number of vendors seems restricted to Larnaca and Nicosia. Soushoukou (sometimes rendered soudzouki), a confection of almonds strung together and then dipped like candle wicks in a vat of palotiza (grape molasses) and rosewater, are sold everywhere in the South for about C£5 a kilo and make an excellent food to consume on trailwalks; so does pastellaki, a sesame, peanut and syrup bar costing about the same. Other less elaborate dried seeds and nuts are easily available in markets.

In the North, street vendors also offer borek, a rich, flaky layered pastry contain- ing bits of meat or cheese. You'll have to sit down in a pideci or "pizza parlour" for a pide (Turkish pizza); usual toppings are peynirli (with cheese), yumurtah (with egg), klymah (with mince), sucuklu (with sausage) or combinations of the above. Usually a small bowl of t;orba (soup) is ordered with a pide. Pidecis may also offer mantl (central Asian ravioli, stuffed with mince) or pirohu (similar but stuffed with cheese), either topped with yogurt, garlic and chilli oil. Tatar boregi, broadly similar to mantl, is traditionally served with grated halloumi cheese and mint.