Polis Chrysochous Guide Chypre

There are few specific sights in Polis other than an old town centre of stone buildings, with their ornate doorways and interior arches. The outstanding exceptions are a museum of archeological finds, inaugurated in 1999, and a late Byzantine church. The Archeological Museum (July & Aug Mon-Fri 8am-2pm, Sat 9am-5pm; Sept-June same hours  plus Thurs 3-6pm; C£0.75) consists of two galleries' worth of grave finds from Marion and Arsinoe, which flank the modern town to the northeast and southeast respectively. The most noteworthy exhibits include Archaic amphorae and kraters painted with chariot-racers, birds and geometric designs; two finely modelled female heads of the same era, plus slighly later terracotta statuettes in "Attic" style; and spiral hair-rings and plaque like earrings of the Classical era. These last contrast sharply with a limited quantity of Hellenistic and Roman gold or silver jewellery, looking stardingly modern with its fine detail and careful stone-settings.

The little sixteenth-century church of Ayios Andhronikos (admission in groups only, escorted by museum guard) lies west of the pedestrian zone, in the midst of a landscaped park. Long the central mosque for the local Turkish- Cypriot community, since their departure it has been examined by archeolo- gists, and the cleaning of extensive, previously whitewashed ttescoes has been completed. They share an affinity with the roughly contemporary wall paintings in Arkhangelos Mikhail in Kholi, though here it's the north vault that's devoted to the events of the Passion and Christ's post-Crucifixion appearances, whilst the south vault chronicles the life of Mary. On the north,. from west to east, Eve unusually stands at the left of Jesus, in his mandorla; the angel greets the myrrh- bearers at the empty tomb (Matthew 28:5); Christ appears to Mary Magdalene (Mark 16:9), sups at Emmaus with Kleophas and Luke, who initially fail to recognize him, addresses his disciples, ascends to heaven, and bestows the Holy Spirit at Pentecost (these latter events as related in Luke 24:13-35). The south vault, alas, is in far worse condition, with only the Kiss of Joachim and Anna, and the Birth of the Virgin, recognizable, but despite this -and sundry gouged-out eyes and dagger-marks on the surviving images -Ayios Andhronikos is well worth a visit, and the museum staff apt to be more patient than the keeper at Kholi.

Polis Practicalities

The town is well provided with pay-and-display car parks -or you can park for free in the streets north to the archeological museum. Minibuses from Ktima Pafos stop at the Nea oroza booking office (Tel 26321114) near the southern edge of town on roleondos. There's a CTO office more or less opposite, at the entrance to the town centre (in season Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 9am-4pm, Wed & Sat 9am-2.30pm). Other amenities include a post office, several banks with ATMs and the municipal market hall, which is the best place to buy fruit and meat for miles around. There's also a rash of scooter- rental agencies, such as Tsaggaros (Tel 26322973) just before the Latcru turning by the Nea Amoroza office.

Eating and drinking in Polis

Most restaurants in the compact town centre are on the expensive or touristy side, though the quality and value on offer at Pinikas, on the pedestrian zone, belie its dubious appearance. Universally praised Arsinoe, also on the pedes- trian zone, specializes in fish and homemade wine, though it's open evenings only. Marginally less expensive is its worthy rival Leondios, on the corner of Apostolou Andhrea and Evagora Pallikaridhi, its menu restricted to salads and palpably fresh fish; budget C£11 per person with drink, or go for the C£7 seafood meze. Carnivores are well seen to at either Herkules & Ioalaos, in a pleas- ant indoor/outdoor environment by the park, or at friendly, homely Vamos, out at the intersection of Dhios Polieos and Meg;ilou Alexandhrou, with some of the best klejtigo in town, For a special blow-out, try either the Old town tavern near the turning for Latchi, dear at C£15-19 a la carte (booze extra), but worth it; or, next to the archeological museum, Arhondariki (tel 26321328). set in an old mansion as the name suggests, with attentive service and good-value food -most nights, you'll need to book here. Nightlife -such as it is -revolves around a pedestrianized three-way junction, now the triangular central plaza, where a dozen self-styled "care-bar- snacks" vie for your attention.